Why Spring Snow Feels So Different

Spring is one of the best-kept secrets of the Alpine season, and also the most misunderstood. Between late March and the middle of April you will often find the deepest base of the year on the upper slopes, longer days, quieter lifts and rail-and-hotel packages that cost noticeably less than they do in February. What you will not find is the same snow all day. By April the sun over the Alps is roughly as strong as it is in the UK in mid-June, and the freeze-thaw cycle rules everything: firm, often icy first thing, soft and forgiving corn snow by mid-morning, heavy wet slush by mid-afternoon.

Understanding that daily rhythm is the whole game. Ski it in the right order and spring conditions are glorious. Ski it in the wrong order and you will spend the afternoon wrestling a waterlogged, grabby surface with burning calves.

Start Early, Finish Early

The single most useful habit in spring is to be on the mountain before the sun has done its work. Aim to be standing at the lift at opening time, usually between 8.30am and 9am, and treat the first two and a half hours as your serious skiing.

• Ride the first lift, not the queue for it. Being one of the first down a freshly groomed piste is worth more in April than in January.
• Ski the steep, groomed runs early while the surface is still crisp and edgeable, and save bumps, park laps and tree runs for later, when they soften.
• Book lunch for 1pm, not 12.30pm. Slope-side terraces empty quickly once the snow turns heavy, and a long lunch is a perfectly respectable way to sit out the worst of the slush.
• Watch the clock after 2pm. If the snow has gone porridge, stop. There is no shame in a spa afternoon, a swim, or an early beer in the village sun.

Use Height and Aspect, Not Just the Piste Map

In spring, altitude matters far more than it does in midwinter. Below about 1,600 metres, and especially on south-facing slopes, expect soft slush by early afternoon. Above 2,200 metres you can often find dry, wintry snow all day, which is why resorts with a glacier or a high top station earn their reputation in April.

Aspect is just as important. North-facing and north-east-facing slopes hold cold winter snow well into April, so plan your afternoon around them. East-facing slopes are at their best mid-morning, once the sun has softened the crust but before it has soaked through. South-facing slopes are the ones to ski between 10am and noon, and to avoid afterwards. Valley runs down to resort level may close altogether, so check the day's lift and piste status before you set out.

One quirk worth knowing: temperature inversions are common in spring. Cold air pools in the valley overnight, so it can be several degrees colder at the base station than at the top. Do not be put off by a chilly morning in the village — take the lift up and see.

Protect Yourself From a Very Strong Sun

Snow reflects most of the ultraviolet light that hits it, so on a sunny spring day you are effectively being sunburnt from above and below at once. High-altitude sunshine plus reflections can leave you pink by lunchtime without you noticing a thing.

• Use a high-factor sunscreen, SPF 50, and reapply every couple of hours. The bits that burn first are under the nose, the ears, the back of the neck, the lips and the backs of the hands.
• Carry an SPF lip balm in a pocket rather than leaving it in your bag at the chalet.
• Wear goggles or sunglasses with category 3 or 4 lenses. Bright, flat spring light is deceptive, and a spare lens in a different tint is worth packing.
• Drink more than you think you need. Warmth, wind and altitude all dehydrate you quietly.

Adjust Your Kit and Your Wax

Spring snow is wetter and heavier, which changes what works. Swap the bulky insulated jacket for a thin merino base layer, a light mid-layer and a waterproof shell you can open on the lifts. Soft, wide-ish all-mountain skis float better in slush than narrow carvers, though if you are skiing first thing on hardpack you may prefer something with a bit more edge grip. Give your skis a warm-weather wax — slush strips wax quickly, and a sticky base will have you walking.

Two small things make a big difference: a second pair of gloves, because wet gloves ruin an afternoon, and boots that you loosen a couple of buckles after lunch as your feet swell in the warmth. Ventilated helmets and thin socks beat thick ones.

Planning a Rail-Based Spring Week

Travelling to the Alps by train suits spring skiing particularly well. You avoid airport queues and luggage charges, ski the afternoon you arrive if you take an overnight service, and can travel Saturday to Saturday without losing a day at either end. Pack in a soft bag with a rucksack for hand luggage, keep boots in a separate bag, and check the luggage allowance for your specific service before you go.

Because the late-season snowline is higher, choose your resort by altitude rather than by reputation. Look for a top station above 2,500 metres, check the published lift closing dates, and ask whether the ski area is still fully linked in the week you plan to travel. Easter falls at different times each year, and the last two weeks of the season can be quiet and cheap or busy with school groups.

Book early for April, travel with a flexible mindset, and spring will reward you with empty pistes, warm terraces and some of the most enjoyable snow of the year.